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The twinkly, tropical, outdoor treehouse spaces at @beechrestaurant in Jamestown hadn’t been set up when we popped over for dinner on a gorgeous spring evening. But the pretty, glass-encased upper dining room—and Megan, the fun and friendly server whose recommendations were spot-on—were the prelude to a parade of tasty dishes that proved Beech is more than just a pretty spot.
We kicked off our meal with shrimp and grits and Beech’s version of sticky ribs. For those who may be familiar with the style served at Newport’s Perro Salado, Beech’s are heftier—sticky but less cloyingly sweet—with a chewy bark and tender, smoky meat beneath.
Four shrimp sit atop a smear of creamy, buttery white corn grits, dotted with cubes of salty applewood-smoked bacon, earthy cremini mushrooms, tender leeks, and a shower of crispy microgreens that lend a delicate touch to a luscious shrimp and grits starter.
The house-made radiatore are more tube-like than the norm—perfect for catching little nubs of beef in the Bolognese sauce. The recipe, one of chef/owner Kevin Gaudreau’s specialties dating back decades, is beloved by scores of regulars. Though for my palate, it lacked a pop of brightness that a splash of red wine or a bit of added tomato paste might have delivered.
A thick block of swordfish comes perched on a mound of roasted tomato pilaf, sautéed spinach, and mango relish. The super-fresh fish is blackened but not overly salty—a subtle foil for the sweetness of the roasted tomato, bits of mango, and rice. As tasty as it gets, this was a home run.
Way too stuffed for dessert, we of course ordered some. Megan insisted the bread pudding was next-level and that a scoop of salted caramel ice cream with chocolate chunks was in order. If a cinnamon roll, coffee cake, and tiramisu had a baby confection, this would be it. Add unreasonably smooth, dense ice cream with its small slabs of dark chocolate to your same spoon. Call me in the morning.
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